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THE CLOTHED BODY IN THE ANCIENT WORLD
17-19 January 2002

Constance Campbell
University of Alabama

The Gold-Colored Belt in Ancient Tragic Costume

Numerous characters in tragic garb depicted in paintings and mosaics from the late Hellenistic and Roman periods wear belts rendered in various shades of tan or gold. That this golden color is meant to be metallic is suggested in several examples. It is easiest to see on the painting of the actor from Herculaneum (Naples, Mus. Naz. 9019). The belt is painted in three basic tones of gold-colored paint: a mid-tone gold, a much darker tone used in the shadows, and a pale yellow for the highlights, making the belt "gleam" as if it were metal. There is also some evidence of metallic belts in tragic costume before the Hellenistic period. On vases of the fourth century B.C.E. we see belts painted solid white, and with either white or unpainted circles. In the fifth century B.C.E. actors appear on vases in tragic costume with belts decorated with evenly spaced white dots. It seems likely that these were attempts within the conventions of vase painting to portray metal studs or, with the solid white, a gleaming belt of metal. Whether any of the metallic belts were of actual gold or a cheaper alloy is unclear. The identifiable figures from vase-paintings who wear belts with the "metallic" studs are all members of royalty. The two identifiable figures in the solid white belts are also both kings. The later figures in gold-colored belts who can be identified as specific characters are Oedipus, Phaedra, and Orestes and Electra. Others who wear such belts are holding what can be scepters. The belt may also signify royal status in a theatrical context.