{"id":752,"date":"2020-04-08T14:36:17","date_gmt":"2020-04-08T14:36:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/?p=752"},"modified":"2020-04-09T08:49:42","modified_gmt":"2020-04-09T08:49:42","slug":"escaping-jordan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/escaping-jordan\/","title":{"rendered":"Escaping Jordan"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">Dennis Walder<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">, Emeritus Professor in English<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_756\" style=\"width: 650px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/Dennis-Walder-1.png\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-756\" class=\"wp-image-756 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/Dennis-Walder-1-1024x768.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/Dennis-Walder-1.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/Dennis-Walder-1-300x225.png 300w, https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/04\/Dennis-Walder-1-768x576.png 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-756\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amman airport, 2.30 am<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Last week my wife and I were in an SUV heading down the King\u2019s Highway through the Jordan desert.\u00a0 We had glimpsed the Promised Land<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">,<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> and were on our way to <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Petra, forty-five kilometres<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> ahead<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> in the deepening dusk<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Our holiday was an add-on to a visit to Amman arranged by the OU for me to chair the revalidation of the Arab OU\u2019s MA in English<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> Literature<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.\u00a0 This <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">was<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> switched at the last minute to Walton Hall because of the impending C-virus crisis<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.\u00a0 We g<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">athered <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">to interview<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> our Arab colleagues by videolink<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">, with a successful result<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">But<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> I could not<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> cancel our holiday without losing the entire cost.\u00a0 S<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">o off we flew to Amman on Royal Jordanian a <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">day<\/span> <span data-contrast=\"auto\">after the revalidation to start our tour<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> Alas, it was not to last long.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Suddenly our driver\u2019s <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">mobile <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">phone rang.\u00a0 <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">He had just been told that <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Petra was closed, and so too all other tourist sites in the country.\u00a0 The airport was <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">shortly <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">going to close too.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">In something of a panic, we got him to turn and head back to the capital as fast as possible, while I tried to rearrange hotel bookings and a flight home on my mobile.\u00a0 <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">As we drove on, our driver tried to reassure us. \u2018It\u2019s OK. You stay with me.\u00a0 Learn Arabic.\u2019\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">We stopped at a roadside refreshment centre for mint tea.\u00a0 A busload of Germans were milling about.\u00a0 One of them held out finger and thumb to me: \u2018We missed it by so much.\u2019\u00a0 I nodded.\u00a0 \u2018Us too.\u2019<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">For some time I<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> could not get through to <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">either the Embassy <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">or our travel agency.\u00a0 <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Eventually<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> the Embassy responded<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">,<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> No, they did not repatriate under these conditions, best for us to keep on trying our travel agent \u2013 who, after saying all direct flights were full, found <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">us a flight<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> via Istanbul departing at 2.35<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> a.m. a few hours before<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> the airport was <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">to close<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">The next night w<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">e gathered in the hotel lobby with a handful of other guests, and our packed suitcases, ready to <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">depart<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.\u00a0 <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Our<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> driver <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">messaged<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> in a panic<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> &#8211; he was outside, but not<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> allowed to pick us up, there were police everywhere.\u00a0 A<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">s he spoke, we saw the hotel doors being sealed<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">After<\/span> <span data-contrast=\"none\">further <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">exchanges between us, the driver, <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">the <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">police, hotel staff<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> and<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> other guests, it emerged that a <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">woman<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> at the hotel a week or two earlier was <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">a C-virus suspect<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">. It was unclear whether anyone was thought to have it more recently, though we saw an ambulance arrive and leave.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">For\u00a0 moment chaos reigned,<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> as people rush<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">ed<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> to and fro across the lobby<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> trying<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> to get agreement for <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">our group of guests<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> to leave the hotel. <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">Time was<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> passing at an alarming rate<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">,<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> and no one <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">appeared to be in charge<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> or clear about wha<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">t was happening. A young Kenyan <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">worker from a Dead Sea hotel <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">grinned at me:<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> \u2018It\u2019s okay, man, it\u2019s just life<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">. <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">We take it easy<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">, huh?<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">\u2019\u00a0 His flight was due to depart in less time it than <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">it <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">would <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">now <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">take to reach the airport.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">As the minutes ticked by, <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">we became<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> desperate at the thought of being trapped in the country for weeks<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.\u00a0 We<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> sought information from a <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">new arrival<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> who looked official. Could we leave?\u00a0 No, we had first to be tested for the virus.\u00a0 <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">And then<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">? We had to wait for the results.\u00a0 How long would that be?\u00a0 Four to six hours.\u00a0 Too late!\u00a0 Don\u2019t you think it would be best to just get rid of us?\u00a0 We asked.\u00a0 <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">This seemed <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">amusing.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Then suddenly we were herded down to the hotel basement where, beside the pot plants and Spa signs, tables were hurriedly set up, and a group of medics in white protective gear and floppy blue socks appeared.\u00a0 They gestured us to approach and sit down one by one in front of a doctor<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">, who stuck thin <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">sticks up our noses<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">, saying <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">\u2018if you must sne<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">eze or cough, please sideways\u2019<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> and then <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">told<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> us to <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">be gloved and masked, and go.\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">We were guided through a side exit<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">,<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> only to be halted by a stern figure in military uniform talking on <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">a<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> mobile.\u00a0 No, you cannot leave.\u00a0 Back to the lobby, <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">more uncertainty as more minutes passed, <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">until at last the doctor\u2019s word was accepted<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">,<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> we were hustled out and into a waiting ambulance, which screeched off, siren blaring, our luggage (sprayed with disinfectant) with our driver<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">, who raced<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> behind us.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">A<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">fter dashing through the <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">airport<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> terminal to check in and pass security, we were stopped in our tracks. O<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">ur conspicuous arrival <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">meant further questioning, and our passports held while <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">a<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">nother<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> doctor was called<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.\u00a0 He had<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\"> to be satisfied that we seemed healthy enough to be let loose. <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Our temperatures were taken and at last w<\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">e <\/span><span data-contrast=\"auto\">ran aboard our Turkish Airlines flight with seconds to spare.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">The next day we learnt that our <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">tests were negative<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Dennis Walder, Emeritus Professor in English Last week my wife and I were in an SUV heading down the King\u2019s Highway through the Jordan desert.\u00a0 We had glimpsed the Promised Land, and were on our way to Petra, forty-five kilometres &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/escaping-jordan\/\" >Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[32],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-752","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-reflections"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/752","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/10"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=752"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/752\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":760,"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/752\/revisions\/760"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=752"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=752"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.open.ac.uk\/blogs\/english\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=752"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}